Tennessee Sounds Good to Me Part II: Memphis

For days the words were stuck in my mind, swirling around endlessly like the rhythm emanating from a joyous drum circle. "I'm goin' to Graceland/Graceland/Memphis, Tennessee…" Thank you Paul Simon! Simon's memorable 1986 hit "Graceland" was getting non-stop repeat play in my head because I was Memphis-bound for the first time and preparing to do exactly what the song's chorus suggested---pay my respects to Elvis Presley with a pilgrimage to his Graceland estate. And getting to see the house where the King of Rock'n'Roll lived, worked and played turned out to be a much more thrilling experience than I had even imagined.

So you think you might look good in one of those flashy jumpsuits that Elvis used to wear on stage? Several versions of the outfits are available for sale at one of the many souvenir shops at Graceland (3734 Elvis Presley Blvd.) where you can buy virtually anything and everything Elvis. The replica stage outfits are pricey at between $1600 and $3500 and are sold primarily to Elvis tribute artists but there is truly something Elvis for everyone in Graceland's souvenir shops. Purses and lots of clothing for the ladies, a wide selection of t-shirts for the guys, CDs, DVDs, posters, coffee mugs and every kind of tchotchke you can imagine (and some you never would!) fill the mini-mall. The shopping area at Graceland is the first thing you come to after you park. This is where you buy your ticket to visit the actual mansion which is across the street. Once you've purchased your ticket you get in line to board a small bus that'll take you over to the house where the riders are then allowed entry into the house in small groups. Although Graceland is referred to as a mansion it is small by today's standards and the hallways are quite narrow so it is necessary for visitors to go through in small batches. So you may be bumping into people as you go through but this is of little consequence once you get a glimpse of things like the infamous "Jungle Room" decked out in shag carpet (even on the walls) and decorated with a collection of art from Africa and the South Seas. 

The Graceland tour is an audio tour so as you go through the Jungle Room you'll be listening on your headset to stories about the famous visitors that Presley entertained there and some of the wild times they had. The house itself is just a small part of the overall Graceland experience; there are several outbuildings packed with memorabilia and at the very end of the tour you come to the memorial garden where Presley and members of his family are buried. This beautiful spot is naturally a place where emotions run very high but most visitors leave the gravesite with a smile as they remember all the smiles that the King brought to them. Back across the street there are several other attractions to take advantage of before you leave Graceland. Elvis had his own jet airliner (named the Lisa Marie after his daughter) and you can climb aboard and get an idea of the style he used to fly in. His smaller, corporate-style jet Hound Dog is also available for inspection.

Another Memphis must-see for music lovers is the Stax Museum of American Soul Music. Located about a ten minute drive away from Graceland at 926 E. McLemore Avenue, the Stax Museum puts you in the mood as soon as you arrive as sweet soul music pours out of speakers in the parking lot. Cameras are not allowed in the museum but you'll definitely leave with lots of memories anyway; who could forget the sight of Isaac Hayes' Cadillac, done up in 24-karat gold, spinning around on a giant turntable? Take a peek inside the Caddy and you'll notice that Isaac traveled with a television and a refrigerated bar in tow. The museum houses more than 2000 artifacts, photos and exhibits including a huge wall plastered with a mind-boggling collection of the label's 7" single releases. 

Some of the artists who came up in the Stax family are Otis Redding, Ike & Tina Turner, Johnnie Taylor, Aretha Franklin, Al Green, Booker T & the MGs, Sam & Dave, The Bar-Kays and the Staple Singers. If you're a fan of Duffy make sure you take a moment here to listen to some Carla Thomas and you'll see that the young Welsh singer has learned a thing or two from the lady known as the Queen of Memphis Soul. 

For live entertainment in Memphis you want to head to the city's famous Beale Street area. Here you can have lunch while listening to a blues band at B.B. King's Restaurant and Blues Club (143 Beale St.) where you can also see one of the many guitars that King has dubbed "Lucille" over the years. King himself performs at the club quite often but one thing you can be sure of when you go out in Memphis is that the music you hear will be top notch. 

The Masqueraders play a regular gig over at the Band Box (142 Beale St.,) a joint that's hosted everyone from Albert King to Jerry Lee Lewis. The four-man vocal group has been around since 1957 performing an old-school mix of blues, soul and doo-wop. Walk a little ways down the club-lined street and you'll find acts like the Dr. Feelgood Potts Band belting out John Lee Hooker tunes and original blues tunes with names like "Pistol-Packin' Mama" and "I Love You Baby." Beale Street is blocked off at night so you can easily navigate from one club to another without worrying about traffic.

There are tons of other music-related things to do in Memphis, like touring the legendary Sun Studio where Elvis recorded or taking in the Smithsonian-affiliated Memphis Rock'n'Soul Museum. Plan your trip to Memphis by visiting www.memphistravel.comand www.tnvacation.com 

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